75 years of Haut Bailly

Château Haut Bailly with Véronique Sanders
At the Institute of Directors
2005-1985 – all ex-château stock

My overall impression of the wines of this somewhat under-rated château was an over-riding feeling of freshness, balanced acidity and purity of fruit. I think that the wines since 1998 are indicative of a great future for Haut Bailly.

2005
Jet black core, pink rim. A fresh blakcurrant nose with a touch of vanilla for this youthful vintage. A lean, precise and concentrated palate of crushed blackberries. Deeply complex, tight-knit structure. Despite the powerful fruit, somehow light on its feet, deeply tannic and packed with potential.

2004
Vibrant purple core. A cooler expression of the Haut Bailly terroir. A nose of blackcurrant creams, chocolate and tobacco. On the palate a purity of fruit that marks the wines of Haut Bailly in recent vintages. A broader, looser-knit structure than 05, starting to show savoury notes. Does not have the length of 05 but will drink well in the near term.

2001
A slight development of a ruby rim – showing the first signs of maturity. The nose has started to develop tertiary aromas; truffle, cedar and crushed rose petals. More CS in this blend. A defined palate of plums, chocolate covered raisins and a rich mouth-feel. A long, lean finish that brings freshness.

2000
Vibrant purple core. A nose focused on cedary notes, hedgerow fruit and liquorice. A little dumb. The palate of Chinese spices, anise backed by power and tannin. A linear, rectangular wine, four square and for the future.

1998 (MY WINE OF THE NIGHT)
A beautiful nose, exceptionally complex: Hawthorn, ripe damsons, wild strawberries as well as chilli pepper and chocolate. In the mouth ripe and full, an exceptional balance, wonderfully fine tannins. A long finish, full of freshness and rounding of an excellent wine with a refreshing, clean finish.

1995
Bricking at the rim. A nose of wood smoke, dried curry spices and nutmeg, but also with a leafiness from the Merlot. On the palate a splash of the 1995 sweetness, spice, black pepper and a minerality – a real Graves component. The finish is still tannic and this wine shows very young on the palate.

1990
Garnet core. Sous-bois (undergrowth) on the nose, underneath which a bitter-sweet chocolate and blackcurrant jam. In the mouth: silky, fully resolved tannins. A delicate, lacy, feminine. Easy to love, if 1989 is the wife then 1990 is the mistress!

1989
A first the nose was a little dumb. Later warm winter spices, Christmas cake and a cedary undertone. On the palate a leathery, dry texture. The presence of alcohol from this hot vintage. Needs a little time to find the true quality of this wine. The wife to the 1990 mistress.

1986
100% CS. A nose of cedar but underneath this a creamy blackberry fool. On the palate lovely tarte aux prunes. Exceptional balance, crisp acidity and great length.

1985
Garnet core, brick orange at the rim. A nose of tertiary aromas, truffles, chocolate but backed by sloes. The palate is open, broad and yet has a wonderful backbone running down the middle. A beautiful wine of excellent balance. One of my favourites of the night.

1970
Fully mature colour. Sweet spice on the nose. A lovely claret that is drinking well now. Some may say a little ‘fatigué’.

1964 MY ‘WINE I WOULD LIKE TO TAKE TO DINNER TONIGHT’
Brick core. Orange rim. A little bit of volatile acidity that carries the wine. On the palate, a sweetness that typifies this exceptional vintage in the Graves. A perfect beverage for now. I thought this was excellent – but it divided opinion.

1961
Not rated. Despite the genuine cork, I maintained the opinion that this was not a pure Haut Bailly 1961.

1929
Victorian brick core, orange rim. On the nose caramel, orange liquor and a freshness that was the signature of all the wines in the line-up. The Haut-Bailly signature of crispness and minerality ran through this 80 year old wine. On the palate, ‘chocolat chaud’ and lovely creamy texture.