Just a quick note from an incredible tasting yesterday
Wow! It truly is an incredible experience . Unblended 1855 port - aged in cask in a cool climate private lodge, purchased by Taylor and bottled in a beautiful decanter and presented in a wooden box. The colour is full-on tawny, burnt orange rim and a watery edge. It has that gold/green hint to it.
It is so concentrated, viscous and yet full of freshness. Nose is like the 1795 Terrantez. Iodine at first, a sweet concentration of apricots but with a briny back note.
Palate is more toward the tawny port notes, delicious dried apricots, cranberries and honey. The acidity balances the whole mouthfeel. A long finish, with the richness of a Malvazia madeira. Truly exceptional . 19.5/20.
We have a few precious bottles for sale, but who ever gets one is a very lucky person.
Tuesday, 19 October 2010
Monday, 11 October 2010
Richard Brierley is Head of Fine Wine at Vanquish Wine Ltd, where he runs a bespoke and discreet service to private clients in the global market for fine and rare wines and is the fund manager of Magenta Wine Investors, a privately held investment vehicle for fine and rare wines.
Whether investing financially or for future enjoyment, fine wine does not have to be challenging with the right advice and a little patience.
The growth of wine investment, as an alternative to more conventional forms of portfolio has continued to rise in recent years and has spurned the growth of several Wine Investment Funds and a wide variety of resources for the wine investor. With sound advice and a broad investment strategy, the results can be rewarding both financially and on the palate!
So, can one still make a sound wine investment in this market?
Yes! The current economic climate does not preclude a sound alternative investment in fine and rare wines, indeed like many markets there many opportunities to buy into the ’blue chip‘ now at a discount to the heights of the market in 2007.
Whilst technology has made comparative price information available to any collector seeking to acquire investment grade wines; the research behind the price is a key factor that will protect your portfolio long term. Expert guidance allows a potential investor to make careful acquisitions by understanding the drivers of market value such as critical opinion, provenance, storage conditions and the presence of the original wooden case for the best wines.
A balanced portfolio across regions, producers and maturity, like most investment strategies, is the soundest approach. An authoritative advisor can help sort through the hype and conduct a thorough market analysis of the future price curve of an agreed basket of wines to measure potential returns.
Whilst in some instances the market for a single wine or vintage increases rapidly on an influential critic’s ‘buy’ recommendation; it is preferable to consider a wine investment as a 5-10 year investment. Past trends show us that wines often peak in value as they approach their first maturity window; when they begin to lose their youthful fruit and develop as mature wines, this for most great wines is at least 5-10 years from bottling.
The influence of the Asian market has grown exponentially in recent months, lead by the buying power of greater China’s HNWIs and the abolition of duty on wines in Hong Kong, SAR. Hong Kong has become the new hub of a growing shift of wine investment and consumption in the world’s most populous continent. Whilst for now, their tastes are limited to a few top château (in particular Château Lafite) a maturing market in mainland China will lead to a broadening of this influence.
The active secondary market in fine and rare wines, together with key indices provided by (amongst others) Liv-ex; a real-time wine trading platform for wine companies, allow investors to track the market value of their portfolio on a monthly basis. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index is the industry’s leading benchmark. It represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The value of the index as of 30th of September 2010 was 308.21, up 1.53% on the previous month. The index is up 32.8% year-on-year and 28.8% year-to-date. Accurate information and candid advice on a timely basis should lead to a successful sale.
At the time of sale, there are a number of routes to market that may be considered. It may be that your chosen merchant can quickly and efficiently find buyers for your portfolio or it may be that a major auction sale would increase the pool of buyers thus increasing the price. An ideal consultant would be able to understand and assess both these options and advise accordingly for all or part of the portfolio.
What’s current?
The recent release of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage to the market at record prices reflected a stunning vintage and rising interest from China. There was, however, some resistance to the pricing of some châteaux’s wines (that will not be delivered until 2012) but there are great buys to be had amongst the crazy prices. This strong pricing of unfinished wine presents an opportunity for the canny investor and my advice now is to buy into the vintages of 2006, 2005, 2000 and 1996 as they represent great value for money compared to the 2009 that is still in the barrel.
In terms of future drinking pleasure, the modern wines, it is argued, will not last as long as their 1960s counterparts. Nonetheless, the best wines from the best vintages of the past generation will prove to be delicious at 10, 15 or 20 years of age. The young wines of Bordeaux that are full of vibrant fruit become mellow with age, taking on the aromas of cooked fruits, tobacco and dried spice. A mature wine at the peak of its drinking pleasure can be a truly sensuous experience. Investing now (and a little patience) will guarantee that these wines are not out of one’s reach at the right time.
Of all alternative investments, wine investment just might be the most fun! Whilst financial gain maybe the initial goal, the fringe benefits may be just as appealing. Many investors choose to take their dividend in liquid form! - by keeping back a few of those precious cases for enjoyment with family and friends.
If you are bitten by the wine ‘bug’ then seek good advice, trust your own taste and above all share!
Whether investing financially or for future enjoyment, fine wine does not have to be challenging with the right advice and a little patience.
The growth of wine investment, as an alternative to more conventional forms of portfolio has continued to rise in recent years and has spurned the growth of several Wine Investment Funds and a wide variety of resources for the wine investor. With sound advice and a broad investment strategy, the results can be rewarding both financially and on the palate!
So, can one still make a sound wine investment in this market?
Yes! The current economic climate does not preclude a sound alternative investment in fine and rare wines, indeed like many markets there many opportunities to buy into the ’blue chip‘ now at a discount to the heights of the market in 2007.
Whilst technology has made comparative price information available to any collector seeking to acquire investment grade wines; the research behind the price is a key factor that will protect your portfolio long term. Expert guidance allows a potential investor to make careful acquisitions by understanding the drivers of market value such as critical opinion, provenance, storage conditions and the presence of the original wooden case for the best wines.
A balanced portfolio across regions, producers and maturity, like most investment strategies, is the soundest approach. An authoritative advisor can help sort through the hype and conduct a thorough market analysis of the future price curve of an agreed basket of wines to measure potential returns.
Whilst in some instances the market for a single wine or vintage increases rapidly on an influential critic’s ‘buy’ recommendation; it is preferable to consider a wine investment as a 5-10 year investment. Past trends show us that wines often peak in value as they approach their first maturity window; when they begin to lose their youthful fruit and develop as mature wines, this for most great wines is at least 5-10 years from bottling.
The influence of the Asian market has grown exponentially in recent months, lead by the buying power of greater China’s HNWIs and the abolition of duty on wines in Hong Kong, SAR. Hong Kong has become the new hub of a growing shift of wine investment and consumption in the world’s most populous continent. Whilst for now, their tastes are limited to a few top château (in particular Château Lafite) a maturing market in mainland China will lead to a broadening of this influence.
The active secondary market in fine and rare wines, together with key indices provided by (amongst others) Liv-ex; a real-time wine trading platform for wine companies, allow investors to track the market value of their portfolio on a monthly basis. The Liv-ex Fine Wine 100 Index is the industry’s leading benchmark. It represents the price movement of 100 of the most sought-after fine wines for which there is a strong secondary market and is calculated monthly. The value of the index as of 30th of September 2010 was 308.21, up 1.53% on the previous month. The index is up 32.8% year-on-year and 28.8% year-to-date. Accurate information and candid advice on a timely basis should lead to a successful sale.
At the time of sale, there are a number of routes to market that may be considered. It may be that your chosen merchant can quickly and efficiently find buyers for your portfolio or it may be that a major auction sale would increase the pool of buyers thus increasing the price. An ideal consultant would be able to understand and assess both these options and advise accordingly for all or part of the portfolio.
What’s current?
The recent release of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage to the market at record prices reflected a stunning vintage and rising interest from China. There was, however, some resistance to the pricing of some châteaux’s wines (that will not be delivered until 2012) but there are great buys to be had amongst the crazy prices. This strong pricing of unfinished wine presents an opportunity for the canny investor and my advice now is to buy into the vintages of 2006, 2005, 2000 and 1996 as they represent great value for money compared to the 2009 that is still in the barrel.
In terms of future drinking pleasure, the modern wines, it is argued, will not last as long as their 1960s counterparts. Nonetheless, the best wines from the best vintages of the past generation will prove to be delicious at 10, 15 or 20 years of age. The young wines of Bordeaux that are full of vibrant fruit become mellow with age, taking on the aromas of cooked fruits, tobacco and dried spice. A mature wine at the peak of its drinking pleasure can be a truly sensuous experience. Investing now (and a little patience) will guarantee that these wines are not out of one’s reach at the right time.
Of all alternative investments, wine investment just might be the most fun! Whilst financial gain maybe the initial goal, the fringe benefits may be just as appealing. Many investors choose to take their dividend in liquid form! - by keeping back a few of those precious cases for enjoyment with family and friends.
If you are bitten by the wine ‘bug’ then seek good advice, trust your own taste and above all share!
Friday, 8 October 2010
The rise of China as a serious wine culture?
Yes - but with it comes the negative side of all luxury good markets.There have been numerous articles on the increasing interest in fine wine in by the affluent Chinese consumer; the rise of Lafite, then Latour and the other first growths.
The statistics are incredible: 150 conurbations with popoulations of 1 million or more, a total population of over 1.3 billion, 350,000 millionaires.
Theories abound about why certain labels have become popular; is it the traditional label, the ease of pronunciation or a determined marketing campaign?
With such a rise in interest and passion for fine wine as well as disposable income in China amongst the middle-classes, demand is currently out stripping supply.
In China wine is given and received as a gift, to gain favour and to show respect. Wine has rapidly become part of the culinary experience in urban centres, wine clubs, wine hotels and the like are opening daily.
Unfortunately this has lead certain 'entrepreneurs' taking advantage of this new culture and playing upon the inability of some to read good Engligh. The attached image shows a large poster at a trade show in northern China advertising 'Chatreal Cheval Blanc, Languedoc' amongst others.
Who knows how much of this is in the system.....
Thursday, 26 August 2010
A return to the best of Dom Pérignon
I recently had the opportunity to taste the new vintage Dom Pérignon 2002 before its official release to the market. I have to say that I have been disappointed with the recent vintages of 2000 and 1999. Having tasted other 2002s from other houses, I was hoping that we would see a return to form from the Epernay based giant.
For reference - we opened a 2000 vintage alongside.
The 2002 has a beautiful light gold colour, displaying a sheen and brightness that I associate with the best young Champagne. This hue is enlivened by a steady stream of miniscule bulles that make this very appealing on the eye.
On the nose, the initial attack is a grapey, citrus concentration with a background of fresh hazelnuts. After some 30 minutes, the nose had developed to deep lemon confit, dried apricots, and a toasted brioche - like apricot preserve on a butter croissant.
In the mouth, the newest DP is immediately a huge presence - feeling weighty and creamy on the mid-palate. The attack is fresh, the acid is perfectly in balance and the whole mouthfull is in perfect harmony. The defining character for me is the energy that runs through this wine, a vitality and freshness that will carry this wine into old age. After longer in the glass we see a glimpse of what this wine will become - a toasty, beautifully balanced glass that shows great breeding and depth of flavour that we have not seen since the 1996.
Spine-tingling!
For me the 02 Dom Pérignon is better that the 1996 was as a young wine and may rival the 1990.
I am very excited to offer the wine when it is released in early September 2010.
For reference - we opened a 2000 vintage alongside.
The 2002 has a beautiful light gold colour, displaying a sheen and brightness that I associate with the best young Champagne. This hue is enlivened by a steady stream of miniscule bulles that make this very appealing on the eye.
On the nose, the initial attack is a grapey, citrus concentration with a background of fresh hazelnuts. After some 30 minutes, the nose had developed to deep lemon confit, dried apricots, and a toasted brioche - like apricot preserve on a butter croissant.
In the mouth, the newest DP is immediately a huge presence - feeling weighty and creamy on the mid-palate. The attack is fresh, the acid is perfectly in balance and the whole mouthfull is in perfect harmony. The defining character for me is the energy that runs through this wine, a vitality and freshness that will carry this wine into old age. After longer in the glass we see a glimpse of what this wine will become - a toasty, beautifully balanced glass that shows great breeding and depth of flavour that we have not seen since the 1996.
Spine-tingling!
For me the 02 Dom Pérignon is better that the 1996 was as a young wine and may rival the 1990.
I am very excited to offer the wine when it is released in early September 2010.
Thursday, 15 July 2010
2005 Tasting
I am planning to taste the 2005 Bordeaux Firsts in September. I have pulled together a bottle each of Chateaux Lafite, Latour, Mouton, Margaux, Haut Brion, La Mission Haut Brion, Petrus, Cheval Blanc and Yquem and these 9 young beauties will be opened on September 9th at our boardroom.
Only 8 seats will be filled - so everyone will get a healthy pour of each of the wines and will lead you through the wines of the great chateaux from the stellar vintage.
Limited availability
GBP1200 per person
contact Richard@vqwine.com for more details
Only 8 seats will be filled - so everyone will get a healthy pour of each of the wines and will lead you through the wines of the great chateaux from the stellar vintage.
Limited availability
GBP1200 per person
contact Richard@vqwine.com for more details
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Bordeaux 2009 - Saint Estèphe
St. Estèphe
I sense that the St. Estephe debate will be dominated by whether or not you like Cos d'Estournel. This debate will rage on - no doubt - for 30 years! This should not over-shadow the fact that Montrose is very, very good as is Calon Ségur. It seems to me that the riper the Cabernet and the bigger dose of this in the blend the more successful the wine in this vintage. Fully ripe Cabernet in this appellation makes for a classy experience.
Calon Ségur
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Beautiful, precise nose, focused bramble fruit. A freshness of fruit borne by a refreshing acidity that I have noticed little in this vintage. Brilliant equilibrium, regal wine – a very classy, restrained wine. I loved it. 18
Cos d’Estournel
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. An almost black broad core with a very thin pink/violet rim. Viscous wine. The nose is initially floral – but after a moment a dense cassis, bacon fat, raisins and figs. The attack in the mouth is super-charged, super-ripe, (too ripe?). No delicacy here – everything is in overdrive. The tannic structure is overwhelming, the fruit is powerful, the alcohol is over-bearing. (14.5%) Have no doubt this is very well-made wine, but it will be the most devisive wine of the vintage. Does this wine have a soul? Is this an expression of the St Estèphe terroir? My score reflects this confusion; can’t give it 20, and it’s too well-made to give it 15. Some will love it – many will not. 17
Les Pagodes de Cos
70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. A very deep colour, glossy. The nose is a powerful shot of super-ripe blackcurrant. In the mouth super-mature, rich raisined fruit, chocolate and exotic spice. (something I always associate with Cos) Integrated tannins, formidable concentration. I almost like this toned down version better than the grand vin. 16.5
Montrose
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep, almost black core. A nose of crème de cassis, a little wood smoke and coffee with an underlining mineral splash. Restrained yet powerful and full of energy. The mid-palate is rich with milk chocolate and a chewy liquorice core of firm tannins. Impressive length. Undoubtedly the best of the appellation. 18.5
Phélan Ségur
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep saturated black colour with a thin pink rim. A perfumed nose; vanilla sugar and a precise cassis. Juicy and fat on the palate, full-blown tannins . a very nice effort. 16.5
Lafon Rochet
64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% vin de presse. A medium purple core. On the nose bright fruit, floral notes at first. In the mouth juicy freshness, chewy tannins. Narrow and focused, but all the ingredients for a nice wine are there, needs a little flesh on the bones. 16.5
Ormes de Pez
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Mid purple. Nose is a little ungiving at first. Subtle cherry but quite closed. Palate is all on the minerality, slightly linear. Bit hot and spicy at the finish. 16
I sense that the St. Estephe debate will be dominated by whether or not you like Cos d'Estournel. This debate will rage on - no doubt - for 30 years! This should not over-shadow the fact that Montrose is very, very good as is Calon Ségur. It seems to me that the riper the Cabernet and the bigger dose of this in the blend the more successful the wine in this vintage. Fully ripe Cabernet in this appellation makes for a classy experience.
Calon Ségur
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Beautiful, precise nose, focused bramble fruit. A freshness of fruit borne by a refreshing acidity that I have noticed little in this vintage. Brilliant equilibrium, regal wine – a very classy, restrained wine. I loved it. 18
Cos d’Estournel
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. An almost black broad core with a very thin pink/violet rim. Viscous wine. The nose is initially floral – but after a moment a dense cassis, bacon fat, raisins and figs. The attack in the mouth is super-charged, super-ripe, (too ripe?). No delicacy here – everything is in overdrive. The tannic structure is overwhelming, the fruit is powerful, the alcohol is over-bearing. (14.5%) Have no doubt this is very well-made wine, but it will be the most devisive wine of the vintage. Does this wine have a soul? Is this an expression of the St Estèphe terroir? My score reflects this confusion; can’t give it 20, and it’s too well-made to give it 15. Some will love it – many will not. 17
Les Pagodes de Cos
70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. A very deep colour, glossy. The nose is a powerful shot of super-ripe blackcurrant. In the mouth super-mature, rich raisined fruit, chocolate and exotic spice. (something I always associate with Cos) Integrated tannins, formidable concentration. I almost like this toned down version better than the grand vin. 16.5
Montrose
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep, almost black core. A nose of crème de cassis, a little wood smoke and coffee with an underlining mineral splash. Restrained yet powerful and full of energy. The mid-palate is rich with milk chocolate and a chewy liquorice core of firm tannins. Impressive length. Undoubtedly the best of the appellation. 18.5
Phélan Ségur
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep saturated black colour with a thin pink rim. A perfumed nose; vanilla sugar and a precise cassis. Juicy and fat on the palate, full-blown tannins . a very nice effort. 16.5
Lafon Rochet
64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% vin de presse. A medium purple core. On the nose bright fruit, floral notes at first. In the mouth juicy freshness, chewy tannins. Narrow and focused, but all the ingredients for a nice wine are there, needs a little flesh on the bones. 16.5
Ormes de Pez
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Mid purple. Nose is a little ungiving at first. Subtle cherry but quite closed. Palate is all on the minerality, slightly linear. Bit hot and spicy at the finish. 16
Friday, 16 April 2010
Bordeaux 2009 - Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion
The extremely powerful, fully-ripe merlot created a potential pitfall for the winemakers of this appellation in 2009. How to balance the viscosity and plushness of merlot at its best with the onset of very high alcohols in the days and weeks leading up to harvest. How to bring out all that beautiful fruit during the winemaking and not let the alcohol dominate the wine. I think that this appellation is the most inconsistent in terms of quality – but the best wines are up there with the great wines of the vintage.
Ausone
Bright deep brooding glossy wine. A purity of fruit on the nose. The attack of fresh fruits continues in the mouth, a cleanliness and finesse. The finish is a long symphony of silky tannins carried by the fruit acids. An incredible wine that was for a few hours my wine of the vintage.19
Chapelle d’Ausone
Bright purple core with a pick rim. A real expression fo the vintage and appellation. A minerality and leanness in the nose and on the initial attack but later a rich mouthfeel with morello cherries. Fully resolved tannins - a stunning effort. 18
Cheval Blanc
60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant purple colour, glossy. A very fragrant nose on the floral side – white lilies with ineral underyone to the vibrant cassis. Tight compact palate, full but smooth and refined tannins. Very pure fruit – long and sensuous. 18
Beauséjour Bécot
Deep purple colour, intense core. Dark fruits on the nose, a little reticent. Goos acid attack. Heat on the back palate, alcohol dominates a little. 14
Balestard la Tonelle
Vibrant purple colour, bright cherry fruit, good attack, palate of plums. Firm tannins – leanness of the appellation. 14.5
Canon
Bright vibrant purple, gloss and polish. Bright fruit driven attack, a little alcohol but balanced by the earthy aromas and fine tannins 16.5
Canon La Gaffelière
Bright mid purple. Harsh attack, lacking body, minerality of the appellation – but a little over powered by the alcohol. 13
Cap de Mourlin
Medium purple, deep core, violets on the nose. In the mouth richness, the liquorice comes through. A warm soft and fully ripe mid palate, firm but polished tannic finish. 15.5
d’Assault
Mid purple colour, deep core. Attractive nose of violets. Lovely mouthfeel initially. Finish is a little tart and under ripe (for the vintage) and shows aspects of greenness. 13
Figeac
Bright glossy purple colour. Concentrated fruit on the palate, a refined wine of quality and style, clean and elegant, equilibrium and finesse. 18
Clos Fourtet
Bright fruit but dominated by the alcohol with a distinct lack of richness. 13.5
Troplong Mondot
Medium/deep purple colour. Already very fragrant, dark fruits with highlights of violets. Strong mid palate, refined tannins with a long finish 17
Pavie Macquin
Bright purple, intense nose through to a concentrated palate. Full and round in the mouth - alcohol is present but all in balance. Very nice 17
Larcis Ducasse
Good sheen. Vibrant Purple. Juicy fruit, dried Indian spice. Balanced and elegant. A great value wine in this up and down appellation. 16.5
La Dominique
Mid purple. Crème de cassis nose, intensity, rich and fully ripe tannins. Fully resolved and very well balanced. Could be a great buy if well priced. 16.5
The extremely powerful, fully-ripe merlot created a potential pitfall for the winemakers of this appellation in 2009. How to balance the viscosity and plushness of merlot at its best with the onset of very high alcohols in the days and weeks leading up to harvest. How to bring out all that beautiful fruit during the winemaking and not let the alcohol dominate the wine. I think that this appellation is the most inconsistent in terms of quality – but the best wines are up there with the great wines of the vintage.
Ausone
Bright deep brooding glossy wine. A purity of fruit on the nose. The attack of fresh fruits continues in the mouth, a cleanliness and finesse. The finish is a long symphony of silky tannins carried by the fruit acids. An incredible wine that was for a few hours my wine of the vintage.19
Chapelle d’Ausone
Bright purple core with a pick rim. A real expression fo the vintage and appellation. A minerality and leanness in the nose and on the initial attack but later a rich mouthfeel with morello cherries. Fully resolved tannins - a stunning effort. 18
Cheval Blanc
60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant purple colour, glossy. A very fragrant nose on the floral side – white lilies with ineral underyone to the vibrant cassis. Tight compact palate, full but smooth and refined tannins. Very pure fruit – long and sensuous. 18
Beauséjour Bécot
Deep purple colour, intense core. Dark fruits on the nose, a little reticent. Goos acid attack. Heat on the back palate, alcohol dominates a little. 14
Balestard la Tonelle
Vibrant purple colour, bright cherry fruit, good attack, palate of plums. Firm tannins – leanness of the appellation. 14.5
Canon
Bright vibrant purple, gloss and polish. Bright fruit driven attack, a little alcohol but balanced by the earthy aromas and fine tannins 16.5
Canon La Gaffelière
Bright mid purple. Harsh attack, lacking body, minerality of the appellation – but a little over powered by the alcohol. 13
Cap de Mourlin
Medium purple, deep core, violets on the nose. In the mouth richness, the liquorice comes through. A warm soft and fully ripe mid palate, firm but polished tannic finish. 15.5
d’Assault
Mid purple colour, deep core. Attractive nose of violets. Lovely mouthfeel initially. Finish is a little tart and under ripe (for the vintage) and shows aspects of greenness. 13
Figeac
Bright glossy purple colour. Concentrated fruit on the palate, a refined wine of quality and style, clean and elegant, equilibrium and finesse. 18
Clos Fourtet
Bright fruit but dominated by the alcohol with a distinct lack of richness. 13.5
Troplong Mondot
Medium/deep purple colour. Already very fragrant, dark fruits with highlights of violets. Strong mid palate, refined tannins with a long finish 17
Pavie Macquin
Bright purple, intense nose through to a concentrated palate. Full and round in the mouth - alcohol is present but all in balance. Very nice 17
Larcis Ducasse
Good sheen. Vibrant Purple. Juicy fruit, dried Indian spice. Balanced and elegant. A great value wine in this up and down appellation. 16.5
La Dominique
Mid purple. Crème de cassis nose, intensity, rich and fully ripe tannins. Fully resolved and very well balanced. Could be a great buy if well priced. 16.5
Tuesday, 13 April 2010
Bordeaux 2009 - Appellation Margaux
Margaux (appellation)
Despite a little hail on the 11th of May, I believe that this appellation has come out on top in the Médoc in terms of consistent quality throughout the vineyards of the communes that make up Margaux. There are two wines that are amongst my favourite of the vintage, but also a great many wines that will provide very good quality drinking further down the price spectrum.
Scores out of 20.
Margaux
A deep purple colour with a wonderful gloss. Expressive nose and dark fruits and chocolate. In the mouth a purity of fruit, accompanied by a freshness and finesse that mark the best of 2009. The tannins are fully integrated and fully ripe. A seductive wine that goes on and on. There is a touch more power and here than at Palmer, but I find it hard to divide these two wines on quality. 19.5
Palmer
Dark fruits, cracked black pepper and crème de cassis on the nose. In the mouth a clean, delicate pure fruit core to a wine that is in perfect balance. The length is astonishing, light on its feet delicate and silky but with all the power one expects from this terroir. This wine seems to have an energy that carries all the components to a long finish. In an appellation with many great wines in 2009, I put this at the very top – I could not break the tie with Margaux. 19.5
Alter Ego de Palmer
Bright gloss. Alter Ego is never a second wine, and in 2009 is a riper expression of the terroir than Chateau Palmer. The purity of fruit matches that of the Palmer, but the Alter Ego has a luxurious, plush feel without the presence of alcohol to match. It is in vintages like this that one should by a case of each of the wines made by the team at Palmer. 17.5
Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux
Dark Purple profound dark core. Expressive nose of fruit and tobacco. Concentration of fruit matched by a tenderness in the mouth. The mid palate is well rounded, fat (gras) and yet balanced by a freshness. The wine is long and is full of verve. 17.5
Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (W)
The product of a fully mature Sauvignon Blanc (100%) and the 12ha plot from whence these grapes come. The freshness is matched only by the complexity and richness in the mouth. Like a lemon sabayon, tart and fresh, rich and creamy at the same time and as you savour the finish the lacy light texture carries you away. 17.5
Brane Cantenac
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant colour. A scent of rose buds with fruit behind. On the palate juicy, lovely fresh fruit. The mouthfeel is silky and polished – seductive. Very good at this price point. 16.5
Durfort Vivens
Imposing black purple colour. A nose that is dried Indian spices with the fruit in the background. Fruit attack is pure and the tannins are firm – a bold wine – but not overly so. Nice effort. 16
Giscours
A glossy, rich-looking deep purple. Cigars and sandalwood on the nose, backed by crème de cassis. The wine is fresh and silky with a balancing acidity and grip enveloped by juicy fruit. I really like this wine for the price – as long as it is within range. 17.
Kirwan
Medium purple, lovely legs. Nose a bit reticent at first. In the mouth though the wine opens up, a juicy wine with a little cinnamon touch a lovely silky mouthfeel. 16
Rauzan Ségla
Bright purple. On the nose star anise and a menthol quality. In the mouth the anise and dusty spice follows through. A silky wine, that is very seductive with fully ripe tannins and a long finish. Very nice. 17.5
Du Tertre
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot.
Mid purple, pink rim. Fresh, vibrant nose. Good attack in the mouth, crisp fresh fruit. Narrow and focused. Elegant. 16.5
Lascombes
Very dark crimson. Viscous and inky depths. Rich and fat, sweet, ripe fruit. A beautiful length. Great value wine of the vintage to drink early.
Malescot St. Exupery
51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot in 50% new oak. Dark purple colour, glossy and rich looking. Star anise, profound blackcurrant nose (old vines?) and ‘gras’. Long juicy, focused with an energy found at Palmer. Excellent balance. 17.5
Summary - there are a ton of great wines in this appellation and two wines really hit the heights of this glorious vintage. Check out the next post for Pauillac.
Despite a little hail on the 11th of May, I believe that this appellation has come out on top in the Médoc in terms of consistent quality throughout the vineyards of the communes that make up Margaux. There are two wines that are amongst my favourite of the vintage, but also a great many wines that will provide very good quality drinking further down the price spectrum.
Scores out of 20.
Margaux
A deep purple colour with a wonderful gloss. Expressive nose and dark fruits and chocolate. In the mouth a purity of fruit, accompanied by a freshness and finesse that mark the best of 2009. The tannins are fully integrated and fully ripe. A seductive wine that goes on and on. There is a touch more power and here than at Palmer, but I find it hard to divide these two wines on quality. 19.5
Palmer
Dark fruits, cracked black pepper and crème de cassis on the nose. In the mouth a clean, delicate pure fruit core to a wine that is in perfect balance. The length is astonishing, light on its feet delicate and silky but with all the power one expects from this terroir. This wine seems to have an energy that carries all the components to a long finish. In an appellation with many great wines in 2009, I put this at the very top – I could not break the tie with Margaux. 19.5
Alter Ego de Palmer
Bright gloss. Alter Ego is never a second wine, and in 2009 is a riper expression of the terroir than Chateau Palmer. The purity of fruit matches that of the Palmer, but the Alter Ego has a luxurious, plush feel without the presence of alcohol to match. It is in vintages like this that one should by a case of each of the wines made by the team at Palmer. 17.5
Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux
Dark Purple profound dark core. Expressive nose of fruit and tobacco. Concentration of fruit matched by a tenderness in the mouth. The mid palate is well rounded, fat (gras) and yet balanced by a freshness. The wine is long and is full of verve. 17.5
Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (W)
The product of a fully mature Sauvignon Blanc (100%) and the 12ha plot from whence these grapes come. The freshness is matched only by the complexity and richness in the mouth. Like a lemon sabayon, tart and fresh, rich and creamy at the same time and as you savour the finish the lacy light texture carries you away. 17.5
Brane Cantenac
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant colour. A scent of rose buds with fruit behind. On the palate juicy, lovely fresh fruit. The mouthfeel is silky and polished – seductive. Very good at this price point. 16.5
Durfort Vivens
Imposing black purple colour. A nose that is dried Indian spices with the fruit in the background. Fruit attack is pure and the tannins are firm – a bold wine – but not overly so. Nice effort. 16
Giscours
A glossy, rich-looking deep purple. Cigars and sandalwood on the nose, backed by crème de cassis. The wine is fresh and silky with a balancing acidity and grip enveloped by juicy fruit. I really like this wine for the price – as long as it is within range. 17.
Kirwan
Medium purple, lovely legs. Nose a bit reticent at first. In the mouth though the wine opens up, a juicy wine with a little cinnamon touch a lovely silky mouthfeel. 16
Rauzan Ségla
Bright purple. On the nose star anise and a menthol quality. In the mouth the anise and dusty spice follows through. A silky wine, that is very seductive with fully ripe tannins and a long finish. Very nice. 17.5
Du Tertre
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot.
Mid purple, pink rim. Fresh, vibrant nose. Good attack in the mouth, crisp fresh fruit. Narrow and focused. Elegant. 16.5
Lascombes
Very dark crimson. Viscous and inky depths. Rich and fat, sweet, ripe fruit. A beautiful length. Great value wine of the vintage to drink early.
Malescot St. Exupery
51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot in 50% new oak. Dark purple colour, glossy and rich looking. Star anise, profound blackcurrant nose (old vines?) and ‘gras’. Long juicy, focused with an energy found at Palmer. Excellent balance. 17.5
Summary - there are a ton of great wines in this appellation and two wines really hit the heights of this glorious vintage. Check out the next post for Pauillac.
Tuesday, 9 March 2010
A first taste of 2009 Bordeaux
There is no doubt that the 2009 Bordeaux vintage was successful from a viticultural standpoint, but the question now turns to its success from a financial perspective. Château owners and negoçiants are pleased to be bringing this vintage to the market in 2010 rather than in the middle of last year's uncertainty, but the pricing and the response of major critics will be key.
I had the chance to review just a handful of the the right bank wines last week at the French Ambassador's residence in London and the standards were generally high. Wines were shown from the members of the Cercle Rive Droite and covered Pomerol, St Emilion and their satelites.
These merlot predominant wines were generally high in alcohol (14%++) and some winemakers talked of several cuves at 16%. The challenge in this vintage for all right bank wines will be explore the finesse and concentration of the Merlot fruit without allowing the obvious presence of alcohol (from the super-ripe grapes) to dominate these wines. As always winemakers will strive for balance whilst refelcting the exuberance of the wines of this crop.
The petits châteaux on show on this occasion were able to achieve this delicate balance and this bodes well for the more illustrious châteaux of the right bank.
On the left bank - we'll see how the vineyard managers have managed to fully ripen the tannic Cabernet Sauvignon and bring out the deep brooding fruit whilst mangaging to find balance with the alcohol....à suivre.
I had the chance to review just a handful of the the right bank wines last week at the French Ambassador's residence in London and the standards were generally high. Wines were shown from the members of the Cercle Rive Droite and covered Pomerol, St Emilion and their satelites.
These merlot predominant wines were generally high in alcohol (14%++) and some winemakers talked of several cuves at 16%. The challenge in this vintage for all right bank wines will be explore the finesse and concentration of the Merlot fruit without allowing the obvious presence of alcohol (from the super-ripe grapes) to dominate these wines. As always winemakers will strive for balance whilst refelcting the exuberance of the wines of this crop.
The petits châteaux on show on this occasion were able to achieve this delicate balance and this bodes well for the more illustrious châteaux of the right bank.
On the left bank - we'll see how the vineyard managers have managed to fully ripen the tannic Cabernet Sauvignon and bring out the deep brooding fruit whilst mangaging to find balance with the alcohol....à suivre.
Thursday, 7 January 2010
Fine Wine - a sound investment?
The growth of wine investment, as an alternative to more conventional forms of portfolio has continued to rise in recent years and has spurned the growth of several Wine Investment Funds and a wide variety of resources for the wine investor. With sound advice and a broad investment strategy, the results can we rewarding both financially and on the palate!
So, can one still make a sound wine investment in this market?
Yes! The challenging economic climate does not preclude a sound alternative investment in fine and rare wines, indeed like many markets there many opportunities to buy into the ’blue chip‘ now at a discount to the heights of the market in 2007.
Whilst technology has made comparative price information available to any collector seeking to acquire investment grade wines; the research behind the price is a key factor that will protect your portfolio long term. Expert guidance allows a potential investor to make careful acquisitions by understanding the drivers of market value such as critical opinion, provenance, storage conditions and the presence of the original wooden case for the best wines.
A balanced portfolio across regions, producers and maturity, like most investment strategies, is the soundest approach. An authoritative advisor can help sort through the hype and conduct a thorough market analysis of the future price curve of an agreed basket of wines to measure potential returns.
Whilst in some instances the market for a single wine or vintage increases rapidly on an influential critic’s ‘buy’ recommendation; it is preferable to consider a wine investment as a 5-10 year investment. Past trends show us that wines often peak in value as they approach their first maturity window; when they begin to lose their youthful fruit and develop as mature wines, this for most great wines is at least 5-10 years from bottling.
The influence of the Asian market has grown exponentially in recent months, lead by the buying power of greater China’s HNWIs and the abolition of duty on wines in Hong Kong, SAR. Hong Kong has become the new hub of a growing shift of wine investment and consumption in the world’s most populous continent. Whilst for now, their tastes are limited to a few top château (in particular Château Lafite) a maturing market in mainland China will lead to a broadening of this influence.
The active secondary market in fine and rare wines, together with key indices provided by (amongst others) Liv-ex; a real-time wine trading platform for wine companies, allow investors to track the market value of their portfolio on a monthly basis. Accurate information and candid advice on a timely basis should lead to a successful sale.
At the time of sale, there are a number of routes to market that may be considered. It may be that your chosen merchant can quickly and efficiently find buyers for your portfolio or it may be that a major auction sale would increase the pool of buyers thus increasing the price. An ideal consultant would be able to understand and assess both these options and advise accordingly for all or part of the portfolio.
As the early reports of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage point to a successful harvest that will bring exceptional wines to the market next spring as futures, there seems that the potential returns and continued interest in wine investment shows no signs of abating.Of all alternative investments, wine investment just might be the most fun! Whilst financial gain maybe the central goal, the fringe benefits may be just as appealing. Many investors choose to take their dividend in liquid form! - by keeping back a few of those precious bottles for enjoyment.
In vino veritas.
So, can one still make a sound wine investment in this market?
Yes! The challenging economic climate does not preclude a sound alternative investment in fine and rare wines, indeed like many markets there many opportunities to buy into the ’blue chip‘ now at a discount to the heights of the market in 2007.
Whilst technology has made comparative price information available to any collector seeking to acquire investment grade wines; the research behind the price is a key factor that will protect your portfolio long term. Expert guidance allows a potential investor to make careful acquisitions by understanding the drivers of market value such as critical opinion, provenance, storage conditions and the presence of the original wooden case for the best wines.
A balanced portfolio across regions, producers and maturity, like most investment strategies, is the soundest approach. An authoritative advisor can help sort through the hype and conduct a thorough market analysis of the future price curve of an agreed basket of wines to measure potential returns.
Whilst in some instances the market for a single wine or vintage increases rapidly on an influential critic’s ‘buy’ recommendation; it is preferable to consider a wine investment as a 5-10 year investment. Past trends show us that wines often peak in value as they approach their first maturity window; when they begin to lose their youthful fruit and develop as mature wines, this for most great wines is at least 5-10 years from bottling.
The influence of the Asian market has grown exponentially in recent months, lead by the buying power of greater China’s HNWIs and the abolition of duty on wines in Hong Kong, SAR. Hong Kong has become the new hub of a growing shift of wine investment and consumption in the world’s most populous continent. Whilst for now, their tastes are limited to a few top château (in particular Château Lafite) a maturing market in mainland China will lead to a broadening of this influence.
The active secondary market in fine and rare wines, together with key indices provided by (amongst others) Liv-ex; a real-time wine trading platform for wine companies, allow investors to track the market value of their portfolio on a monthly basis. Accurate information and candid advice on a timely basis should lead to a successful sale.
At the time of sale, there are a number of routes to market that may be considered. It may be that your chosen merchant can quickly and efficiently find buyers for your portfolio or it may be that a major auction sale would increase the pool of buyers thus increasing the price. An ideal consultant would be able to understand and assess both these options and advise accordingly for all or part of the portfolio.
As the early reports of the 2009 Bordeaux vintage point to a successful harvest that will bring exceptional wines to the market next spring as futures, there seems that the potential returns and continued interest in wine investment shows no signs of abating.Of all alternative investments, wine investment just might be the most fun! Whilst financial gain maybe the central goal, the fringe benefits may be just as appealing. Many investors choose to take their dividend in liquid form! - by keeping back a few of those precious bottles for enjoyment.
In vino veritas.
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