St. Estèphe
I sense that the St. Estephe debate will be dominated by whether or not you like Cos d'Estournel. This debate will rage on - no doubt - for 30 years! This should not over-shadow the fact that Montrose is very, very good as is Calon Ségur. It seems to me that the riper the Cabernet and the bigger dose of this in the blend the more successful the wine in this vintage. Fully ripe Cabernet in this appellation makes for a classy experience.
Calon Ségur
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Beautiful, precise nose, focused bramble fruit. A freshness of fruit borne by a refreshing acidity that I have noticed little in this vintage. Brilliant equilibrium, regal wine – a very classy, restrained wine. I loved it. 18
Cos d’Estournel
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. An almost black broad core with a very thin pink/violet rim. Viscous wine. The nose is initially floral – but after a moment a dense cassis, bacon fat, raisins and figs. The attack in the mouth is super-charged, super-ripe, (too ripe?). No delicacy here – everything is in overdrive. The tannic structure is overwhelming, the fruit is powerful, the alcohol is over-bearing. (14.5%) Have no doubt this is very well-made wine, but it will be the most devisive wine of the vintage. Does this wine have a soul? Is this an expression of the St Estèphe terroir? My score reflects this confusion; can’t give it 20, and it’s too well-made to give it 15. Some will love it – many will not. 17
Les Pagodes de Cos
70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. A very deep colour, glossy. The nose is a powerful shot of super-ripe blackcurrant. In the mouth super-mature, rich raisined fruit, chocolate and exotic spice. (something I always associate with Cos) Integrated tannins, formidable concentration. I almost like this toned down version better than the grand vin. 16.5
Montrose
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep, almost black core. A nose of crème de cassis, a little wood smoke and coffee with an underlining mineral splash. Restrained yet powerful and full of energy. The mid-palate is rich with milk chocolate and a chewy liquorice core of firm tannins. Impressive length. Undoubtedly the best of the appellation. 18.5
Phélan Ségur
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep saturated black colour with a thin pink rim. A perfumed nose; vanilla sugar and a precise cassis. Juicy and fat on the palate, full-blown tannins . a very nice effort. 16.5
Lafon Rochet
64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% vin de presse. A medium purple core. On the nose bright fruit, floral notes at first. In the mouth juicy freshness, chewy tannins. Narrow and focused, but all the ingredients for a nice wine are there, needs a little flesh on the bones. 16.5
Ormes de Pez
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Mid purple. Nose is a little ungiving at first. Subtle cherry but quite closed. Palate is all on the minerality, slightly linear. Bit hot and spicy at the finish. 16
Tuesday, 20 April 2010
Friday, 16 April 2010
Bordeaux 2009 - Saint Emilion
Saint Emilion
The extremely powerful, fully-ripe merlot created a potential pitfall for the winemakers of this appellation in 2009. How to balance the viscosity and plushness of merlot at its best with the onset of very high alcohols in the days and weeks leading up to harvest. How to bring out all that beautiful fruit during the winemaking and not let the alcohol dominate the wine. I think that this appellation is the most inconsistent in terms of quality – but the best wines are up there with the great wines of the vintage.
Ausone
Bright deep brooding glossy wine. A purity of fruit on the nose. The attack of fresh fruits continues in the mouth, a cleanliness and finesse. The finish is a long symphony of silky tannins carried by the fruit acids. An incredible wine that was for a few hours my wine of the vintage.19
Chapelle d’Ausone
Bright purple core with a pick rim. A real expression fo the vintage and appellation. A minerality and leanness in the nose and on the initial attack but later a rich mouthfeel with morello cherries. Fully resolved tannins - a stunning effort. 18
Cheval Blanc
60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant purple colour, glossy. A very fragrant nose on the floral side – white lilies with ineral underyone to the vibrant cassis. Tight compact palate, full but smooth and refined tannins. Very pure fruit – long and sensuous. 18
Beauséjour Bécot
Deep purple colour, intense core. Dark fruits on the nose, a little reticent. Goos acid attack. Heat on the back palate, alcohol dominates a little. 14
Balestard la Tonelle
Vibrant purple colour, bright cherry fruit, good attack, palate of plums. Firm tannins – leanness of the appellation. 14.5
Canon
Bright vibrant purple, gloss and polish. Bright fruit driven attack, a little alcohol but balanced by the earthy aromas and fine tannins 16.5
Canon La Gaffelière
Bright mid purple. Harsh attack, lacking body, minerality of the appellation – but a little over powered by the alcohol. 13
Cap de Mourlin
Medium purple, deep core, violets on the nose. In the mouth richness, the liquorice comes through. A warm soft and fully ripe mid palate, firm but polished tannic finish. 15.5
d’Assault
Mid purple colour, deep core. Attractive nose of violets. Lovely mouthfeel initially. Finish is a little tart and under ripe (for the vintage) and shows aspects of greenness. 13
Figeac
Bright glossy purple colour. Concentrated fruit on the palate, a refined wine of quality and style, clean and elegant, equilibrium and finesse. 18
Clos Fourtet
Bright fruit but dominated by the alcohol with a distinct lack of richness. 13.5
Troplong Mondot
Medium/deep purple colour. Already very fragrant, dark fruits with highlights of violets. Strong mid palate, refined tannins with a long finish 17
Pavie Macquin
Bright purple, intense nose through to a concentrated palate. Full and round in the mouth - alcohol is present but all in balance. Very nice 17
Larcis Ducasse
Good sheen. Vibrant Purple. Juicy fruit, dried Indian spice. Balanced and elegant. A great value wine in this up and down appellation. 16.5
La Dominique
Mid purple. Crème de cassis nose, intensity, rich and fully ripe tannins. Fully resolved and very well balanced. Could be a great buy if well priced. 16.5
The extremely powerful, fully-ripe merlot created a potential pitfall for the winemakers of this appellation in 2009. How to balance the viscosity and plushness of merlot at its best with the onset of very high alcohols in the days and weeks leading up to harvest. How to bring out all that beautiful fruit during the winemaking and not let the alcohol dominate the wine. I think that this appellation is the most inconsistent in terms of quality – but the best wines are up there with the great wines of the vintage.
Ausone
Bright deep brooding glossy wine. A purity of fruit on the nose. The attack of fresh fruits continues in the mouth, a cleanliness and finesse. The finish is a long symphony of silky tannins carried by the fruit acids. An incredible wine that was for a few hours my wine of the vintage.19
Chapelle d’Ausone
Bright purple core with a pick rim. A real expression fo the vintage and appellation. A minerality and leanness in the nose and on the initial attack but later a rich mouthfeel with morello cherries. Fully resolved tannins - a stunning effort. 18
Cheval Blanc
60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant purple colour, glossy. A very fragrant nose on the floral side – white lilies with ineral underyone to the vibrant cassis. Tight compact palate, full but smooth and refined tannins. Very pure fruit – long and sensuous. 18
Beauséjour Bécot
Deep purple colour, intense core. Dark fruits on the nose, a little reticent. Goos acid attack. Heat on the back palate, alcohol dominates a little. 14
Balestard la Tonelle
Vibrant purple colour, bright cherry fruit, good attack, palate of plums. Firm tannins – leanness of the appellation. 14.5
Canon
Bright vibrant purple, gloss and polish. Bright fruit driven attack, a little alcohol but balanced by the earthy aromas and fine tannins 16.5
Canon La Gaffelière
Bright mid purple. Harsh attack, lacking body, minerality of the appellation – but a little over powered by the alcohol. 13
Cap de Mourlin
Medium purple, deep core, violets on the nose. In the mouth richness, the liquorice comes through. A warm soft and fully ripe mid palate, firm but polished tannic finish. 15.5
d’Assault
Mid purple colour, deep core. Attractive nose of violets. Lovely mouthfeel initially. Finish is a little tart and under ripe (for the vintage) and shows aspects of greenness. 13
Figeac
Bright glossy purple colour. Concentrated fruit on the palate, a refined wine of quality and style, clean and elegant, equilibrium and finesse. 18
Clos Fourtet
Bright fruit but dominated by the alcohol with a distinct lack of richness. 13.5
Troplong Mondot
Medium/deep purple colour. Already very fragrant, dark fruits with highlights of violets. Strong mid palate, refined tannins with a long finish 17
Pavie Macquin
Bright purple, intense nose through to a concentrated palate. Full and round in the mouth - alcohol is present but all in balance. Very nice 17
Larcis Ducasse
Good sheen. Vibrant Purple. Juicy fruit, dried Indian spice. Balanced and elegant. A great value wine in this up and down appellation. 16.5
La Dominique
Mid purple. Crème de cassis nose, intensity, rich and fully ripe tannins. Fully resolved and very well balanced. Could be a great buy if well priced. 16.5
Tuesday, 13 April 2010
Bordeaux 2009 - Appellation Margaux
Margaux (appellation)
Despite a little hail on the 11th of May, I believe that this appellation has come out on top in the Médoc in terms of consistent quality throughout the vineyards of the communes that make up Margaux. There are two wines that are amongst my favourite of the vintage, but also a great many wines that will provide very good quality drinking further down the price spectrum.
Scores out of 20.
Margaux
A deep purple colour with a wonderful gloss. Expressive nose and dark fruits and chocolate. In the mouth a purity of fruit, accompanied by a freshness and finesse that mark the best of 2009. The tannins are fully integrated and fully ripe. A seductive wine that goes on and on. There is a touch more power and here than at Palmer, but I find it hard to divide these two wines on quality. 19.5
Palmer
Dark fruits, cracked black pepper and crème de cassis on the nose. In the mouth a clean, delicate pure fruit core to a wine that is in perfect balance. The length is astonishing, light on its feet delicate and silky but with all the power one expects from this terroir. This wine seems to have an energy that carries all the components to a long finish. In an appellation with many great wines in 2009, I put this at the very top – I could not break the tie with Margaux. 19.5
Alter Ego de Palmer
Bright gloss. Alter Ego is never a second wine, and in 2009 is a riper expression of the terroir than Chateau Palmer. The purity of fruit matches that of the Palmer, but the Alter Ego has a luxurious, plush feel without the presence of alcohol to match. It is in vintages like this that one should by a case of each of the wines made by the team at Palmer. 17.5
Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux
Dark Purple profound dark core. Expressive nose of fruit and tobacco. Concentration of fruit matched by a tenderness in the mouth. The mid palate is well rounded, fat (gras) and yet balanced by a freshness. The wine is long and is full of verve. 17.5
Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (W)
The product of a fully mature Sauvignon Blanc (100%) and the 12ha plot from whence these grapes come. The freshness is matched only by the complexity and richness in the mouth. Like a lemon sabayon, tart and fresh, rich and creamy at the same time and as you savour the finish the lacy light texture carries you away. 17.5
Brane Cantenac
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant colour. A scent of rose buds with fruit behind. On the palate juicy, lovely fresh fruit. The mouthfeel is silky and polished – seductive. Very good at this price point. 16.5
Durfort Vivens
Imposing black purple colour. A nose that is dried Indian spices with the fruit in the background. Fruit attack is pure and the tannins are firm – a bold wine – but not overly so. Nice effort. 16
Giscours
A glossy, rich-looking deep purple. Cigars and sandalwood on the nose, backed by crème de cassis. The wine is fresh and silky with a balancing acidity and grip enveloped by juicy fruit. I really like this wine for the price – as long as it is within range. 17.
Kirwan
Medium purple, lovely legs. Nose a bit reticent at first. In the mouth though the wine opens up, a juicy wine with a little cinnamon touch a lovely silky mouthfeel. 16
Rauzan Ségla
Bright purple. On the nose star anise and a menthol quality. In the mouth the anise and dusty spice follows through. A silky wine, that is very seductive with fully ripe tannins and a long finish. Very nice. 17.5
Du Tertre
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot.
Mid purple, pink rim. Fresh, vibrant nose. Good attack in the mouth, crisp fresh fruit. Narrow and focused. Elegant. 16.5
Lascombes
Very dark crimson. Viscous and inky depths. Rich and fat, sweet, ripe fruit. A beautiful length. Great value wine of the vintage to drink early.
Malescot St. Exupery
51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot in 50% new oak. Dark purple colour, glossy and rich looking. Star anise, profound blackcurrant nose (old vines?) and ‘gras’. Long juicy, focused with an energy found at Palmer. Excellent balance. 17.5
Summary - there are a ton of great wines in this appellation and two wines really hit the heights of this glorious vintage. Check out the next post for Pauillac.
Despite a little hail on the 11th of May, I believe that this appellation has come out on top in the Médoc in terms of consistent quality throughout the vineyards of the communes that make up Margaux. There are two wines that are amongst my favourite of the vintage, but also a great many wines that will provide very good quality drinking further down the price spectrum.
Scores out of 20.
Margaux
A deep purple colour with a wonderful gloss. Expressive nose and dark fruits and chocolate. In the mouth a purity of fruit, accompanied by a freshness and finesse that mark the best of 2009. The tannins are fully integrated and fully ripe. A seductive wine that goes on and on. There is a touch more power and here than at Palmer, but I find it hard to divide these two wines on quality. 19.5
Palmer
Dark fruits, cracked black pepper and crème de cassis on the nose. In the mouth a clean, delicate pure fruit core to a wine that is in perfect balance. The length is astonishing, light on its feet delicate and silky but with all the power one expects from this terroir. This wine seems to have an energy that carries all the components to a long finish. In an appellation with many great wines in 2009, I put this at the very top – I could not break the tie with Margaux. 19.5
Alter Ego de Palmer
Bright gloss. Alter Ego is never a second wine, and in 2009 is a riper expression of the terroir than Chateau Palmer. The purity of fruit matches that of the Palmer, but the Alter Ego has a luxurious, plush feel without the presence of alcohol to match. It is in vintages like this that one should by a case of each of the wines made by the team at Palmer. 17.5
Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux
Dark Purple profound dark core. Expressive nose of fruit and tobacco. Concentration of fruit matched by a tenderness in the mouth. The mid palate is well rounded, fat (gras) and yet balanced by a freshness. The wine is long and is full of verve. 17.5
Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (W)
The product of a fully mature Sauvignon Blanc (100%) and the 12ha plot from whence these grapes come. The freshness is matched only by the complexity and richness in the mouth. Like a lemon sabayon, tart and fresh, rich and creamy at the same time and as you savour the finish the lacy light texture carries you away. 17.5
Brane Cantenac
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant colour. A scent of rose buds with fruit behind. On the palate juicy, lovely fresh fruit. The mouthfeel is silky and polished – seductive. Very good at this price point. 16.5
Durfort Vivens
Imposing black purple colour. A nose that is dried Indian spices with the fruit in the background. Fruit attack is pure and the tannins are firm – a bold wine – but not overly so. Nice effort. 16
Giscours
A glossy, rich-looking deep purple. Cigars and sandalwood on the nose, backed by crème de cassis. The wine is fresh and silky with a balancing acidity and grip enveloped by juicy fruit. I really like this wine for the price – as long as it is within range. 17.
Kirwan
Medium purple, lovely legs. Nose a bit reticent at first. In the mouth though the wine opens up, a juicy wine with a little cinnamon touch a lovely silky mouthfeel. 16
Rauzan Ségla
Bright purple. On the nose star anise and a menthol quality. In the mouth the anise and dusty spice follows through. A silky wine, that is very seductive with fully ripe tannins and a long finish. Very nice. 17.5
Du Tertre
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot.
Mid purple, pink rim. Fresh, vibrant nose. Good attack in the mouth, crisp fresh fruit. Narrow and focused. Elegant. 16.5
Lascombes
Very dark crimson. Viscous and inky depths. Rich and fat, sweet, ripe fruit. A beautiful length. Great value wine of the vintage to drink early.
Malescot St. Exupery
51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot in 50% new oak. Dark purple colour, glossy and rich looking. Star anise, profound blackcurrant nose (old vines?) and ‘gras’. Long juicy, focused with an energy found at Palmer. Excellent balance. 17.5
Summary - there are a ton of great wines in this appellation and two wines really hit the heights of this glorious vintage. Check out the next post for Pauillac.
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