Bordeaux 2009 - Appellation Margaux

Margaux (appellation)
Despite a little hail on the 11th of May, I believe that this appellation has come out on top in the Médoc in terms of consistent quality throughout the vineyards of the communes that make up Margaux. There are two wines that are amongst my favourite of the vintage, but also a great many wines that will provide very good quality drinking further down the price spectrum.
Scores out of 20.

Margaux
A deep purple colour with a wonderful gloss. Expressive nose and dark fruits and chocolate. In the mouth a purity of fruit, accompanied by a freshness and finesse that mark the best of 2009. The tannins are fully integrated and fully ripe. A seductive wine that goes on and on. There is a touch more power and here than at Palmer, but I find it hard to divide these two wines on quality. 19.5

Palmer
Dark fruits, cracked black pepper and crème de cassis on the nose. In the mouth a clean, delicate pure fruit core to a wine that is in perfect balance. The length is astonishing, light on its feet delicate and silky but with all the power one expects from this terroir. This wine seems to have an energy that carries all the components to a long finish. In an appellation with many great wines in 2009, I put this at the very top – I could not break the tie with Margaux. 19.5

Alter Ego de Palmer
Bright gloss. Alter Ego is never a second wine, and in 2009 is a riper expression of the terroir than Chateau Palmer. The purity of fruit matches that of the Palmer, but the Alter Ego has a luxurious, plush feel without the presence of alcohol to match. It is in vintages like this that one should by a case of each of the wines made by the team at Palmer. 17.5

Pavillon Rouge de Château Margaux
Dark Purple profound dark core. Expressive nose of fruit and tobacco. Concentration of fruit matched by a tenderness in the mouth. The mid palate is well rounded, fat (gras) and yet balanced by a freshness. The wine is long and is full of verve. 17.5

Pavillon Blanc de Château Margaux (W)
The product of a fully mature Sauvignon Blanc (100%) and the 12ha plot from whence these grapes come. The freshness is matched only by the complexity and richness in the mouth. Like a lemon sabayon, tart and fresh, rich and creamy at the same time and as you savour the finish the lacy light texture carries you away. 17.5

Brane Cantenac
53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Bright vibrant colour. A scent of rose buds with fruit behind. On the palate juicy, lovely fresh fruit. The mouthfeel is silky and polished – seductive. Very good at this price point. 16.5

Durfort Vivens
Imposing black purple colour. A nose that is dried Indian spices with the fruit in the background. Fruit attack is pure and the tannins are firm – a bold wine – but not overly so. Nice effort. 16

Giscours
A glossy, rich-looking deep purple. Cigars and sandalwood on the nose, backed by crème de cassis. The wine is fresh and silky with a balancing acidity and grip enveloped by juicy fruit. I really like this wine for the price – as long as it is within range. 17.

Kirwan
Medium purple, lovely legs. Nose a bit reticent at first. In the mouth though the wine opens up, a juicy wine with a little cinnamon touch a lovely silky mouthfeel. 16

Rauzan Ségla
Bright purple. On the nose star anise and a menthol quality. In the mouth the anise and dusty spice follows through. A silky wine, that is very seductive with fully ripe tannins and a long finish. Very nice. 17.5

Du Tertre
55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot.
Mid purple, pink rim. Fresh, vibrant nose. Good attack in the mouth, crisp fresh fruit. Narrow and focused. Elegant. 16.5

Lascombes
Very dark crimson. Viscous and inky depths. Rich and fat, sweet, ripe fruit. A beautiful length. Great value wine of the vintage to drink early.

Malescot St. Exupery
51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, 4% Petit Verdot in 50% new oak. Dark purple colour, glossy and rich looking. Star anise, profound blackcurrant nose (old vines?) and ‘gras’. Long juicy, focused with an energy found at Palmer. Excellent balance. 17.5

Summary - there are a ton of great wines in this appellation and two wines really hit the heights of this glorious vintage. Check out the next post for Pauillac.