Bordeaux 2009 - Saint Estèphe

St. Estèphe
I sense that the St. Estephe debate will be dominated by whether or not you like Cos d'Estournel. This debate will rage on - no doubt - for 30 years! This should not over-shadow the fact that Montrose is very, very good as is Calon Ségur. It seems to me that the riper the Cabernet and the bigger dose of this in the blend the more successful the wine in this vintage. Fully ripe Cabernet in this appellation makes for a classy experience.


Calon Ségur
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot. Beautiful, precise nose, focused bramble fruit. A freshness of fruit borne by a refreshing acidity that I have noticed little in this vintage. Brilliant equilibrium, regal wine – a very classy, restrained wine. I loved it. 18

Cos d’Estournel
68% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. An almost black broad core with a very thin pink/violet rim. Viscous wine. The nose is initially floral – but after a moment a dense cassis, bacon fat, raisins and figs. The attack in the mouth is super-charged, super-ripe, (too ripe?). No delicacy here – everything is in overdrive. The tannic structure is overwhelming, the fruit is powerful, the alcohol is over-bearing. (14.5%) Have no doubt this is very well-made wine, but it will be the most devisive wine of the vintage. Does this wine have a soul? Is this an expression of the St Estèphe terroir? My score reflects this confusion; can’t give it 20, and it’s too well-made to give it 15. Some will love it – many will not. 17

Les Pagodes de Cos
70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot. A very deep colour, glossy. The nose is a powerful shot of super-ripe blackcurrant. In the mouth super-mature, rich raisined fruit, chocolate and exotic spice. (something I always associate with Cos) Integrated tannins, formidable concentration. I almost like this toned down version better than the grand vin. 16.5

Montrose
65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot. Deep, almost black core. A nose of crème de cassis, a little wood smoke and coffee with an underlining mineral splash. Restrained yet powerful and full of energy. The mid-palate is rich with milk chocolate and a chewy liquorice core of firm tannins. Impressive length. Undoubtedly the best of the appellation. 18.5

Phélan Ségur
58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Deep saturated black colour with a thin pink rim. A perfumed nose; vanilla sugar and a precise cassis. Juicy and fat on the palate, full-blown tannins . a very nice effort. 16.5

Lafon Rochet
64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 1% vin de presse. A medium purple core. On the nose bright fruit, floral notes at first. In the mouth juicy freshness, chewy tannins. Narrow and focused, but all the ingredients for a nice wine are there, needs a little flesh on the bones. 16.5

Ormes de Pez
54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Mid purple. Nose is a little ungiving at first. Subtle cherry but quite closed. Palate is all on the minerality, slightly linear. Bit hot and spicy at the finish. 16